I was walking through Insadong on a freezing December evening when I caught a familiar smell — sweet, nutty, smoky. Roasted chestnuts. A vendor was hand-cracking each one before serving. He handed me a paper bag full of warm Gun-bam(군밤), and I tucked it inside my coat like a portable heater.
For the next ten minutes, I peeled and ate chestnuts while walking through the cold. Each one was warm, sweet, slightly buttery. There’s something deeply comforting about food you have to work for — the peeling, the warmth in your fingers, the slow, satisfying ritual of winter walking with chestnuts.
Did You Know?
Korea is one of the world’s largest chestnut producers. Korean chestnuts are notably sweet and large, prized across Asia. Roasted chestnut vendors in Korea typically pre-score the shells with a knife to make peeling easier — a small detail that makes a big difference when your fingers are cold.
Where & Price
Winter street corners, traditional markets, especially in Insadong, Namdaemun, Gwangjang. Price: 2,000-5,000 KRW ($1.50-$3.75) per bag. Tip: ask for them “hot” — the heat is half the experience.
A Walking Ritual
Gun-bam isn’t just a snack — it’s a winter walking ritual. Buy a bag, tuck it under your arm, walk through Seoul, peel and eat as you go. The warmth in your fingers, the slow rhythm of peeling, the sweet meat of each chestnut — it forces you to slow down and notice the cold city around you. Sometimes the best snacks are the ones that change how you walk.
