I was at a Korean pojangmacha (street tent bar) when my friend ordered something I’d never seen before. Tiny dark cubes on skewers, glazed with sweet-spicy sauce. “What is it?” I asked. “Just try it,” he said with a grin. I bit one. Chewy, savory, slightly mineral, with a sweet-spicy glaze that made it dangerously easy to keep eating. Yeomtong-kkochi(염통꼬치) — chicken heart skewers.
I was eating chicken hearts and I was loving it. Korea has a way of making “weird” foods taste so good you forget to be squeamish.
What Is It?
Yeomtong-kkochi is chicken hearts grilled on bamboo skewers, then glazed with the same sweet-spicy gochujang sauce used for dak-kkochi. About 100-150 kcal per skewer. Lean, protein-rich, and surprisingly tender.
Did You Know?
Yeomtong-kkochi is classic Korean drinking food (anju). It pairs perfectly with soju or beer at pojangmacha tents. The chewy texture and rich flavor make it ideal for slow eating with drinks. It’s also one of the most affordable proteins in Korean street food culture.
Where & Price
Pojangmacha tents, traditional markets, late-night food streets. Price: 1,500-2,500 KRW ($1-$2) per skewer. Best enjoyed with soju after midnight.
Beyond First Impressions
Many travelers skip yeomtong-kkochi because of the name. Don’t. The texture is more like firm liver than scary organ meat, the flavor is rich and clean, and the gochujang glaze ties it all together. If you’ve eaten chicken liver before, this is just the next step. Pair it with soju and you’ll understand why Koreans have been eating this for generations.
